Bespoke Knowledge for the Crispy Gentleman

Why do I need whiskers on my jeans? What is a goth ninja? Is smoking cool? Is drinking milk cool? When to go “Double Breasted”? Is the Consigliere of Crispyness an important figure in modern culture? What is a “designer”? Do brands matter? What brands matter? What is a “herb”?

As a believer in the evolution of the man, these are the important questions you need to be asking yourself. And FYMW has the answers.

Launch event tonight Nov. 8th 7-9pm at at powerHouse books in Brooklyn,with authors Kevin Burrows and Lawrence Schlossman, joined by A Continuous Lean‘s Michael Williams.

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Capsule Show NY A/W 2012


Capsule Men’s tradeshow hit New York earlier this week proclaiming loud and clear that menswear’s American heritage movement is alive and well. Brands like Hellers Cafe, Yuketen, Ovadia & Sons and Billy Reid being some of the bigger names, showcasing their latest goodies this time around.

As a veteran of the show (this was my 2nd), I couldn’t help but admire Capsule’s progress from six months ago. Of note this season was The Donut Shop greeting you upon entry and exit. This delightful pop-up shop gave attendees a chance for instant gratification from a number of vendors; a rare prospect at a trade show like this considering product is generally not available for purchase on the spot.

Last season, we honed in on the emerging trend of floral and effeminate prints and the implications of them infiltrating our macho wardrobes. This time around there were still a fair share, one in particular by Monitaly (featured below) that took first prize as my favorite piece of the show. But generally speaking for this season’s collections, designers appeared a bit less progressive in their offerings, choosing to build on what has been highly successful of late: American heritage inspiration.

Other top honors go to Ovadia & Sons, who’s collection truly captures the essence of the current menswear renaissance. Ovadia blends the perfect concoction of the old world gentleman mixed with what men today are looking for. The breadth of their assortment is also astonishing. It will take you from being the best dressed person in your office to being the best dressed person literally anywhere. Despite the fact that I have never tried anything of theirs on (a blunder that I will hopefully soon set right), I am truly sold.

An instant favorite and something a bit different was Lazy Oaf. A brand I know little about, but found refreshingly different from Capsule’s sea of distressed canvas, drab colors and work boots. Lazy Oaf felt young and vibrant and even a bit campy. I couldn’t help but gravitate towards their brightly colored 80’s new wave bold prints. You know… to add a bit of “pop” to my military drab inspired wardrobe.

Final thoughts:  Nothing really knocked me out of my socks to be perfectly frank. I saw lots of incredible product and ideas, but nothing from the greater beyond. Disappointing, but also relieving to see that as the menswear renaissance heats up, labels appear to be wisely taking heed of the tortoises’s slow and steady result.

Featured Vendors

Orange Crush Exports

Kings County Salvage

Yuketen

Monitaly

Tanner Goods

Ovadia & Sons

The one and only Mr. Delany of MyPantalones

Field Notes

Lazy Oaf

Del Toro

Vanishing Elephant

Read’s Clothing Project