Capsule Show NY A/W 2012


Capsule Men’s tradeshow hit New York earlier this week proclaiming loud and clear that menswear’s American heritage movement is alive and well. Brands like Hellers Cafe, Yuketen, Ovadia & Sons and Billy Reid being some of the bigger names, showcasing their latest goodies this time around.

As a veteran of the show (this was my 2nd), I couldn’t help but admire Capsule’s progress from six months ago. Of note this season was The Donut Shop greeting you upon entry and exit. This delightful pop-up shop gave attendees a chance for instant gratification from a number of vendors; a rare prospect at a trade show like this considering product is generally not available for purchase on the spot.

Last season, we honed in on the emerging trend of floral and effeminate prints and the implications of them infiltrating our macho wardrobes. This time around there were still a fair share, one in particular by Monitaly (featured below) that took first prize as my favorite piece of the show. But generally speaking for this season’s collections, designers appeared a bit less progressive in their offerings, choosing to build on what has been highly successful of late: American heritage inspiration.

Other top honors go to Ovadia & Sons, who’s collection truly captures the essence of the current menswear renaissance. Ovadia blends the perfect concoction of the old world gentleman mixed with what men today are looking for. The breadth of their assortment is also astonishing. It will take you from being the best dressed person in your office to being the best dressed person literally anywhere. Despite the fact that I have never tried anything of theirs on (a blunder that I will hopefully soon set right), I am truly sold.

An instant favorite and something a bit different was Lazy Oaf. A brand I know little about, but found refreshingly different from Capsule’s sea of distressed canvas, drab colors and work boots. Lazy Oaf felt young and vibrant and even a bit campy. I couldn’t help but gravitate towards their brightly colored 80’s new wave bold prints. You know… to add a bit of “pop” to my military drab inspired wardrobe.

Final thoughts:  Nothing really knocked me out of my socks to be perfectly frank. I saw lots of incredible product and ideas, but nothing from the greater beyond. Disappointing, but also relieving to see that as the menswear renaissance heats up, labels appear to be wisely taking heed of the tortoises’s slow and steady result.

Featured Vendors

Orange Crush Exports

Kings County Salvage

Yuketen

Monitaly

Tanner Goods

Ovadia & Sons

The one and only Mr. Delany of MyPantalones

Field Notes

Lazy Oaf

Del Toro

Vanishing Elephant

Read’s Clothing Project

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Capsule Show: New York Men’s

Yesterday, my good friend and confidant, Russell Morse and I headed over to 11th Avenue in Chelsea to have a look at the Capsule Show Men’s Event. What we found was a blissfully curated selection of some of the finest menswear brands in the land.

As expected, there was a heavy overtone of timeless and classically inspired garb. Yet the industry did not feel stuck in the past, it felt exuberant and optimistic. Often we found our eyes drawn towards bold and playful prints from an assortment of designers. Many toyed with feminine inspirations, refreshingly hinting towards a looser, more explorative and expressive direction to men’s fashion.

of notoriety:

Brooklyn’s own Oviada & SonsAriel Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons with his spread and a gorgeous silk/cashmere double-breasted jacket

Sweden’s Our LegacyNot the greatest visual, but the shorts hanging on the right had a fantastic muted/subtle color palette that we were particularly fond of.

Billykirk 

212 local, REPO.BRAND. A true standout marked by inspired detailing. REPO’s website is also worth a look. super cool tie pin above and metal clasps on the fireman jacket below
 Liberty Cuffs
UK’s Marshall Artist displaying a couple of exceptional prints
Thanks to Andrew for showing us the Penny Stock and Vanishing Elephant collections. More prints from both
Velour had one of the best collections in terms of wearability with subtle styling and great texture. Also, possibly the best slogan
Great meeting Corey of NYC’s Parke & Ronen, here he is holding up a choice pair of hallucinogenically induced trunks
Inspiring and original footwear from Osborn 
Sweet bandana lining from V::room
and then there were the gentlemen of Monitaly and Yuketen, Mino and Yushi
Yuketen shoes
The alter-ego work of designers Jose Abellar and David Ayala known as Gilbert and Lewis. These shorts show great detailing, tastefully perfected inside and out 
weathered denim jacket, Closed 
And lastly, Christophe Loiron’s Mister Freedom. After meeting the amicable Mr. Loiron I have nailed down why I have such a soft spot for the brand: attitude. Honestly, it is just too damn cool. Everything- Loiron, the inspiration, the fabric, the designs and the garments, the brand in general. I asked Christophe if he had seen anything at the show that he liked. His response? He had no interest in seeing what others were up to. A testament to the Mister Freedom attitude and it exudes from his line: one-of-a-kind and exquisite. Kudos.
After all was said and done Capsule was a hell of a showcase: too many promising products, friendly folks and a downright good time. Thanks to everyone for taking the time to speak with Russell and me, and we look forward to more soon!
-Ryan Link